Engine – Day 9
Distributor Gear Endplay
The distributor pinion gear which I’d previously installed needed to have its end play checked against the case. This is a pretty simple task to do and I’ve never had or seen an engine where this is a problem but apparently it can be so. I’d imagine with old used cases with lots of miles and not so much with new 0 mile ones.
I had to clean up all the lube I’d coated the shims in but it basically is a test of the distributor mated to the gear (without the gear spring) and then a measurement of the gap between the 2 shims and the case resting surface.
It is one of those measurements of it needs to be at least 020″-.050″ and I’m way within that. I may check again before I do final assembly.
One of the key things that I discovered that I did not know about before is that the distributor itself can influence this, and changing distributors therefore can impact this, and therefore slowly introduce timing difference for firing.
I’ll admit, I did not do anything on the 2019 New Build. I am not sure if I just missed the page in the Wilson book (since that was my major guide at the time) or what. but I just greased up 2 shims and the gear and that was that..
I think about all the times I’ve changed/swapped distributors and never gave this much thought though. I mean, it makes sense things would change, but I never want to have to re-shim a distributor gear in a case that is already closed and sealed! Hell, I can barely get the gear back out the bore with the case open (and it spins freely). Trying to pull the gear with that shitty little tool I bought would be a nightmare.
I think I may look up someone else’s method or instruction on ensuring this is within spec. I want to make sure it is correct and of course, is proper moving forward with this and all future engines I build (I’m looking at you 3 used cases.)
Oil Pressure Relief Valves
I had tested the pistons in their bores before cleaning and they felt fine. Since I don’t have an experienced person over my should saying “too tight” or “too lose” I have basically just ensured they moved with some lube and installed them as-is.
These were new pistons and springs and not the AJ case’s ones so I expect some tightness, especially without any lube, but these felt fine.
Now the biggest mistake I made was not buying a set of the hex plugs since I already had a new set of these that came with case hardware. I really hate these.
They are just too difficult to turn without risking damage to the line. I mean, in a world of camming out screws this is the most camming out of screws I have ever seen.
Hell, if the head was a few millimeters deeper you could machine a much deeper valley to screw this in without risking damage.
I got them in, but you can already see some damage just from trying to crush the washer and tighten the one at the flywheel.
I realized I needed to use the restored 205H distributor so I can make sure TDC is all in synch between the rotor and gears and pistons. I am going to keep it wrapped in bubble-wrap to protect it. Cost too much not to.