Reference: VW Type 1 Engine Building – Long Block

Continued from Short Block Assembly.

The following is a common basic order of building a stock VW Type 1 1600cc dual-pressure relief 8mm cylinder stud engine short block.

Assumptions Made:

  • Short block is completed and sealed.
  • All external long block parts (pistons, cylinders, heads, valves, rocker arms, etc.) are fully clean.
  • All case hardware (washers, nuts, bolts, etc.) is clean and ready to go.
  • You have all necessary tools, sealants, lubes, etc.

Warning: This order/list is not inclusive, and assumes you’ve some experience doing an engine build of some kind. Follow at your own risk.

Step 1 – Crankshaft – Pulley

  1. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley. This will make it easier to turn the crank and move the rods. Don’t bother with the bolt at this stage.

Builder’s Note: I typically use an old pulley at this stage and not the final pulley I’ll use on the engine. This reduces chances of metal scraping and other potential damage to any painted surfaces. However, if all you have is your main pulley then use it.

Step 2 – Case – Cylinder Stud Installation

Side 3/4

Requires 5 long and 1 medium, and 2 short studs

  1. Coat each stud’s insertion threads with a bit of Loctite 592 sealant (if case savers are open to the interior of the case).
  2. Insert 4 long studs along the bottom case savers on the case.
  3. Insert 1 medium stud at the front top case saver at Cylinder 4.
  4. Insert 2 short studs at the top middle case savers.
  5. Insert the remaining 1 long stud into the deep set case saver at the rear of Cylinder 3.

Side 1/2

Requires 4 long and 2 medium, and 2 short studs

  1. Coat each stud’s insertion threads with a bit of Loctite 592 sealant (if case savers are open to the interior of the case).
  2. Insert 4 long studs along the bottom case savers on the case.
  3. Insert 1 medium stud at the front top case saver at Cylinder 4.
  4. Insert 2 short studs at the top middle case savers.
  5. Insert the remaining 1 medium stud at the rear of Cylinder 1.

Builder’s Note: Many builders install a thread sealant product on the insertion of the studs into the case. Some case savers are closed inside the case so no oil can leak. Many aftermarket case savers are open on both ends so oil may leak and also loosen the stud. I use a very thin bit of Loctite 592. Others use Permatex and other sealants.

Step 3 – Piston and Cylinder – Preparation

Preparation – Lay out your pistons and cylinders in the order of the case side. Note the arrow on the piston that faces the flywheel.

  1. If not done so, make sure all cosmoline is washed off your pistons, rings, wrist pins, and cylinders and that everything completely clean and dry.
  2. Install  1 wrist pin clip on the inside of the piston, making sure to check the piston arrow for placement direction against your planned bore install.
  3. Oil the piston skirt and very lightly oil the wrings.
  4. Clock the rings appropriately on the cylinder. Top ring at 10am. Second ring at 1pm. Top oil ring at 11am. Bottom oil ring at 1pm.
  5. Lube the cylinder bore.
  6. Put the ring compressor over the rings, place the piston inside the cylinder with arrow facing flywheel direction.
  7. With a rubber mallet, drive the piston into the hole.
  8. Clean up the excess oil on the exterior cylinder surfaces.
  9. Push the cylinder out towards the case hole, but keeping the rings securely inside.
  10. Lube and insert the wrist pin. Set aside.
  11. Repeat for the remaining 3 pistons and cylinders, making sure your placement and arrows are all as you intend to place them.

Builder’s Note: I’ve adapted this from VWDarrin on YouTube. I tried other methods, but his video made me realize his method works much better for me..

Step 4 – Piston and Cylinder – Installation

Preparation – Lay out your pistons and cylinders in the order of the case side you will install. Have your gaskets and sealants on hand as this will move very quickly once started.

  1. Position crank so that rod #1 is as far out as possible.
  2. Take Piston/Cylinder #1 and ensure that the case mating surface is as clean as possible.
  3. Coat the base of the cylinder with Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant, place the gasket on, and then another coat of sealant over that.
  4. Lube the wrist pin bore and wrist pin. Align the piston to the rod and insert the wrist pin fully into the piston.
  5. Insert the remaining pin clip.
  6. Push the cylinder down into the bore, ensuring that it fully seats on the studs and deeply into the bore, allowing the sealant to compress with the gasket. Hold it a moment if necessary.
  7. Repeat this for the remaining 3 piston/cylinders.

Builder’s Note:  Many people use the sealant of their choice. I have also used Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for this seal as well, but without the paper gasket.

Step 5 – Under Cylinder Air Deflector Tin – Installation

  1. Install the under cylinder tin on the 1/2 side.
  2. Repeat this for the tin on the 3/4 side.

Builder’s Note:  Make sure you have the correct size. They exist for both 8mm studs and 10mm studs.

Step 6 – Push Rod Tube and Head Installation

  1. Place the push rod tube seals onto all 8 tubes.
  2. Place a head on the cylinder studs and push lightly on.
  3. With the seam in the tube facing upwards, insert the tube into the case and then, insert a push rod into that tube from the cylinder head to hold it. Repeat this for all remaining 7 tubes.
  4. Push the head down farther and move inspect each tube/seal at the case and at the head to ensure a tight clean fit.
  5. Place the cylinder head stud washers and nuts onto each stud.
  6. With a torque wrench, torque the nuts to 7 ft-lbs in the following initial sequence.
    VW Type 1 Cylinder Head Initial Torque Sequence
  7. Torque the nuts to 18 ft-lbs in the following final sequence.VW Type 1 Cylinder Head Final Torque Sequence
  8. Inspect the push rod tubes and seals to ensure the heads compressed everything properly.
  9. Repeat this for the other side of the engine.

Builder’s Note: If using the stock generic aftermarket push rod tubes, a few coats of a high-temp clear coat prior to install will prevent rust and keep them clean for far longer than normal.
Builder’s Note: 8mm chromoly studs should have a final torque to 23 ft-lbs.
Builder’s Note: 10mm studs require different cylinder head final torque to 25 ft-lbs.
Builder’s Note: I adapted the torque sequence information from information by Dune Buggy Warehouse.

Step 7 – Rocker Arm Installation

Preparation – Rocker arms need to be cleaned and ready to install with the correct washer order.

  1. Install the 2 o-ring seals onto the rocker arm studs.
  2. Place the rocker arms onto the studs.
  3. Make sure the push rods seat into their respective arms.
  4. Place the flat washer and 13mm nut onto the studs.
  5. Torque both nuts to 18 ft-lbs.
  6. Repeat for the other side.

Builder’s Note: Different rocker arms with different ratios require shimming, custom push rod lengths, and other modifications and custom rocker arm geometry.

Step 8 – Initial Valve Adjustment

  1. Bring Cylinder 1 to Top Dead Center with the crank pulley.
  2. Adjust valve to .007″ slightly loose (if they are new). .006″ if reusing existing.
  3. Coat rocker arms and washers with oil.
  4. Install valve cover with gasket.
  5. Repeat on other head.

Builder’s Note: The .007″ clearance comes from the Bug Me Video Volume 3. His recommendation is to go loose on new parts, and then after 300 mile break-in adjust valves to normal 006″.

This completes the long block assembly.

Continued in Final Assembly.

Updated 2020-06-18