Continued from Long Block Assembly.
The following is a common basic order of building a stock VW Type 1 1600cc dual-pressure relief 8mm cylinder stud engine short block.
Assumptions Made:
- Tins are in the condition you wish to install them onto the engine.
- Everything is fully cleaned.
- All case hardware (washers, nuts, bolts, etc.) is clean and ready to go.
Warning: This order/list is not inclusive, and assumes you’ve some experience doing an engine build of some kind. Follow at your own risk.
Step 2 – Case – Cylinder Stud Installation
Side 3/4
Requires 5 long and 1 medium, and 2 short studs
- Coat each stud’s insertion threads with a bit of Loctite 592 sealant (if case savers are open to the interior of the case).
- Insert 4 long studs along the bottom case savers on the case.
- Insert 1 medium stud at the front top case saver at Cylinder 4.
- Insert 2 short studs at the top middle case savers.
- Insert the remaining 1 long stud into the deep set case saver at the rear of Cylinder 3.
Side 1/2
Requires 4 long and 2 medium, and 2 short studs
- Coat each stud’s insertion threads with a bit of Loctite 592 sealant (if case savers are open to the interior of the case).
- Insert 4 long studs along the bottom case savers on the case.
- Insert 1 medium stud at the front top case saver at Cylinder 4.
- Insert 2 short studs at the top middle case savers.
- Insert the remaining 1 medium stud at the rear of Cylinder 1.
Builder’s Note: Many builders install a thread sealant product on the insertion of the studs into the case. Some case savers are closed inside the case so no oil can leak. Many aftermarket case savers are open on both ends so oil may leak and also loosen the stud. I use a very thin bit of Loctite 592. Others use Permatex and other sealants.
Step 1 – Oil Cooler Installation
- Find the appropriate new seals from the gasket set.
- Assemble the oil cooler onto the doghouse flange.
- Install the doghouse flange onto the case.
- Place the foam backed tape onto the oil cooler to help seal against the tin cover.
Step 2 – Alternator Stand / Oil Filler Installation
- Coat the case surface at the mount point with Gasgacinch.
- Lay down 1 paper gasket from the gasket kit.
- Coat the top of the gasket with Gasgacinch.
- Place the metal deflector down onto the studs. The louvres should be facing down into the case and the flat side to Cylinder 2.
- Coat the edge of the deflector with Gasgacinch and place the 2nd paper gasket down.
- Coat the top of the gasket with Gasgacinch.
- Place the alternator stand down onto the studs.
- Place the washers and nuts onto the studs and tighten down.
Builder’s Note: The installation on 75-79 US L-Jetronic Fuel Injection systems differs due to the one longer alternator stud coming up through the one plenum half.
Step 5 – Fuel Pump Installation
- Check your plastic/bakelite fuel pump flange in the case. If it goes in difficult, sand down the shaft so that it falls down easily into the case.
- Coat the case gasket with Gasgacinch and place on the case over the 2 studs.
- Coat the top of the gasket.
- Place the fuel pump flange down into the case over the gasket.
- Place the 2nd gasket down over the flange.
- Pack the bottom of the fuel pump where the rod touches with bearing grease or white lithium grease.
- Insert the rod down into the flange.
- Place the pump onto the gasket over the 2 studs.
- Place the washers and nuts on and tighten down.
Builder’s Note: Make sure you have the correct fuel push rod for the style of fuel pump you are using.
Step 6 – Crank Pulley Tin Installation
- Remove the crank that was installed at the beginning of the long block assembly.
- Install the appropriate pulley tin that is needed.
- Put the temporary pulley back on.
Builder’s Note: Different pulley tins were used with different cutouts, especially after 1973 as different Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) systems were used.
Step 7 – Cylinder Tin installation
- Place the 1/2 cylinder tin down over the cylinders and head.
- Screw it to the appropriate mounts.
- Place the 3/4 cylinder tin down over the cylinders and head.
- Screw it to the appropriate mounts.
- Install the left front under cylinder tin.
- Install the right front under cylinder tin.
Step 8 – Stock Intake Manifold Installation
- Place the intake manifold down onto the case.
- Install a new boot and clamps on the 1/2 manifold part and slip onto the head, slipping onto the main manifold.
- Install a new boot and clamps on the 3/4 manifold part and slip onto the head, slipping onto the main manifold.
- Loosely tighten things, but adjustments will be needed later when installing the exhaust.
Builder’s Note: This entire step will be deleted if using a dual carb system. You’ll need to figure out what goes where for whatever duals you may decide to run.
Step 9 – Fan and Alternator Installation
- Install the alternator tins onto the alternator and assemble the fan onto the assembly.
- Install the combined assembly into the fan shroud and install the 4 screws or bolts that hold it onto the shroud.
- As a whole unit, drop the fan shroud over the oil cooler and drop the thermostat rod through head 1/2 and the lower internal cylinder deflector.
- Screw the should to the tins near the intakes.
Builder’s Note: Some people still use the older 1973.5 and earlier generator (dynamo). It installs in the same method.
Step 10 – Heat Exchanger and Muffler Installation
- Install the 1/2 heat exchanger at the mount point at #1 exhaust point.
- Tighten exhaust nuts.
- Install the 3/4 heat exchanger at the mount point at #3 exhaust point.
- Tighten exhaust nuts.
- Place the small metal gaskets under the pre-heat pipes (heat riser) on the manifold and their connection point on the muffler.
- Bolt the heat risers to the mufflers.
Builder’s Note: This may vary depending on non-stock exhausts.
Step 11 – Remaining Tin and Other Installation
- Install the horizontal linkage between the thermostat flaps.
- Install the doghouse tin and the doghouse outlet onto the fan shround with the 2 necessary screws.
- Install the flywheel tin at the rear, fitting the outlet through it.
- Screw the thermostat onto the rod that dropped through the 1/2 cylinder head.
- Make sure the thermostat bracket is mounted to the stud at the bottom of the case.
- Install the 1/2 two-piece heat tin under the 1/2 cylinder. Screw it at the rear of the cylinder tins as well as to the mount points on the heat exchanger.
- Install the 3/4 one-piece heat tin under the 3/4 cylinder. Screw it at the rear of the cylinder tins as well as to the mount points on the heat exchanger.
- If you have the engine on a stand, you may need to remove it to complete the flywheel installation.
Builder’s Note:
Step 12 – Reviewing Endplay
Preparation – Requires the shims from the short block’s crank assembly stage. Also assumes you have an endplay tool.
- Place the ships on the crank and install the flywheel.
- Tighten up the gland nut.
- Install a basic endplay tool.
- Adjust the bold
- With 2 pry bars or screwdrivers, pull the flywheel out.
- Adjust the end play tool bolt until it just touches the flywheel.
- With a rubber mallet, push the flywheel back-in.
- Using feeler gauges, measure the space between the bolt and the flywheel. It should be about .004″ based on what was being aimed for during crank installation.
- If it differs any less than .003″ or more than .005″ than the flywheel needs to be removed to ensure there is appropriate end play.
- Remove the final 3 shims and set aside.
Builder’s Note:
Step 13 – Install Main Seal
Preparation – Make sure every surface is clean at the rear.
- Coat the outer side of the new main seal with a bit of grease as well as the inner diameter.
- Place it at the rear crank.
- Evenly push the main seal into the gap. You can use a rubber mallet and an old seal, or other flat surface to push it in evenly.
- The seal needs to be pushed all the way into the the case until it bottoms out against the case.
- Oil the 3 crank shims and place them onto the crank inside the ring of the seal.
Builder’s Note: X
Step 14 – Install the Flywheel
Preparation – Make sure the gland nut threads are clean.
- Slightly oil and Install a new o-ring into the flywheel.
- Place the flywheel on the crank dowels. Use a rubber mallet to evenly install it onto all dowels.
- Coat the gland nut threads with Loctite (Blue or Red).
- Place the washer on and the gland nut.
- Tighten the gland nut to 250 ft-lbs but whatever means you have necessary.
Step 14 – Install the clutch and pressure plate.
- Install the clutch friction disk using the clutch installer tool.
- Put the pressure plate onto the flywheel.
- Place the 6 bolts into the pressure plate
- Slowly tighten them in, going randomly so that no one area gets pulled in at once.
Updated 2020-06-14