Now I’ve been purchasing parts during various vendor sales for over 2 years knowing this major project would have to happen one day.
There are plusses and minuses to doing this, especially based on 1) your own knowledge of certain things and 2) unexpected this that occur when you actually start the project.
I reset the garage today, pulling out a large table to supplement my smaller ones so I could lay out everything that I have purchased, as well as other miscellaneous things that I know will likely be needed for not only the engine work, but all the other systems I’m redoing or touching in someway.
I have some major choices to make on some things, as I’ve come along way in my attitudes on certain things since even from a few years ago, especially when it comes to aftermarket parts and difference of any kind from the original.
Engine Stuff
The original purpose of pulling the engine was to redo seals and gaskets given the clear evidence from the engine itself, as well as the original professional inspection I had done at an air-cooled shop right after I purchased her.
Previously Purchased Parts
- New Elring Engine Gasket and Seal Kit
- New Elring Main Seal
- New LUKS Clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw-out Bearing
- New Pressure Plate Bolts
- New distributor parts for 205H (cap, rotor, condenser, points)
- New spark plugs
- New HT leads
- New EGR Filter and Connecting Pipe
- New EGR Filter Gaskets
- New Muffler, Tailpipe, and Tailpipe clamp kit
- New Complete Fuel Line kit (pre-cut hoses and new clamps, o-rings, and seals for everything on the fuel injection system)
- New Stainless Steel Pushrod Tubes
- New Cylinder Head Temp Sensor
- New Exhaust Manifold to Heat Exchanger Gaskets
- New Belt
- New Oil Pump Plate sealing nuts
- Heat Shrink Wire Projectors
- New throttle cable
Parts/Supplies I Now Know I Need To Purchase
- New FI Intake Manifold Spacer/Gaskets
- New FI Oil Filler (for the gasket)
- New grommets for rear cylinder tin (for fuel lines and electric)
- New seals for doghouse outlet (possibly)
- New rubber gasket seals for heat control flaps
- New heater accordion hoses (may as well redo both sides)
- A variety of gasket material sheets (high-pressure and petroleum resistant types) for custom gaskets for throttle body and other components
- New fresh air hose to heat exchanger pipe connections
- Additional EGR filters (there are many more in use on the top end than I ever realized)
- Satin Black metal spray paint
- Satin top coat spray paint (petroleum resistant)
- New boots for injector components (possibly needed, available at Jbugs)
- Bulk new vacuum lines and other hoses (probably will avoid braided types)
- Plastic “restoration” spray (for electric wiring)
- New Hex-Style Pressure Relief Plugs (if I crack the case)
- New oil pump (I may have a 26mm dished cam one in another box. Only if needed.)
- New 12V Bosch Coil
- New heads with proper valve sizes
Decision-Making
- Years ago I purchased a set of stainless steel pushrod tubes since Murbella’s are in such bad shape, I didn’t expect them to be so glossy and chrome looking, which I hate. But, given that the should be more corrosion resistant, they would better serve a car with all of this exposed to the elements. However, I recently learned a tip that I cannot believe I didn’t think of (since I do it to other parts) and that was to just spray the basic aftermarket replacement ones with a couple of coats of a top coat to help the avoid corrosion and to clean up better. So. Do I put these expensive but chromey looking ones on destroying her stock look, or do I just top coat other ones I have and install those?
- Do I purchase new heads with the proper smaller valve sizes, or go with what has been advised as early valves since I don’t drive the car hard?
Suspension Stuff
The bushings and such all needed to be replaced.
Previously Purchased Parts
- New Red Polyurethane Torsion Bar inner and outer bushings
- New OEM style rubber Torsion Bar inner and outer bushings
- New Red Polyurethane Pivot Joint Bushings
- New Black Polyurethane Pivot Joint Bushings (from better company)
- New Spring Plate Nuts and Bolts
- New Spring Plate Cover Plate Bolts
- New Rear Sway Bar
- Silicone Grease for Urethan Bushings
Parts/Supplies I Now Know I Need To Purchase
- Longer cover plate bolts (to help attach plate to assemble with new bearings, temp use only)
Decision-Making
- Basically it comes down to either using the red polyurethane bushings for the torsion bars/cover plates or to use the OEM rubber style. I’ve read pluses and minuses to using both and as usual, there seems to be no real consensus on the message boards.
- Also, I need to determine if the rear sway bar is worth the effort. I mean, now would be the time to install it with everything else going in clean and new/refurbished. I think it will definitely help some of the “hop” Murbella sees when turning and should stiffen up all that. In conjunction with the new bushings it should make for a very different driving car.
- Do I use the new pivot bolts/washers or the originals?
Drivetrain Stuff
While the transaxle will be outsourced, auxiliary parts will be replaced and the axles restored.
Previously Purchased Parts
- New German Made CV Joints
- New German Made CV Boots
- New CV Joint bolts and serrated washers
- New Inner and Outer Bearings
- New Inner and Outer Grease Seals
- New Transaxle Mounts
- New Nosecone to Body seals and bushings
- New Bowden Tube
- New Clutch Cable (if needed)
Parts/Supplies I Now Know I Need To Purchase
- ????
Decision-Making
- Which vendor do I go with for the transaxle synchro repair and regasketing? Both that got back to me that can do the work are on opposite sides of the state from be and just about equidistant.
Brake Stuff
Previously Purchased Parts
- New Rear Disc Upgrade Kit (calipers, rotors, hardware, etc.)
- New banjo connection rear stainless steel hoses
- New E-Brake Lines
Parts/Supplies I Now Know I Need To Purchase
- Fresh DOT3 brake fluid
Decision-Making
- Do I paint the caliber holders with the same KBS rust seal as the rest of the suspension and stub axle ends or just use an epoxy paint that is corrosion resistant?
- Do I disassemble and paint the caliper metal?
Body Stuff
Previously Purchased Parts
- New Body to Front Tin Rubber Seal
- New Body to Rear Tine Rubber Seal
- New decklid rubber seal
- New Tar Board
Parts/Supplies I Now Know I Need To Purchase
- New heater cable for passenger side (to not replace half-ass setup)
- New heater cable tube for passenger side
- New heater cable tube boots
- New heater cable clamp
- Blaze-Cut Fire Extinguisher System for Decklid
Decision-Making
- Do I just invest in the new heater cable now, even though the likelihood of me ever using the heat or driving the car in cold weather is null? Do I do it to just do it right?
- Do I seen out a better tar board replacement than the aftermarket one I previously purchased that seems so flimsy?
- If there is no rust behind the existing tar board, do I add sound deadening to the metal even though I always drive the car with top down?
- Do I invest in a Blaze Cut system now?
I figure CIP1 is due for their summer sale soon. I’ll hold off on any needed parts pending any vendor sales.